Saturday, January 2, 2016

fun with seniors Cuban style!

Day two- and we are off in the morning to begin exploring Old Havana- we break the walking tour into two parts because the weather is unseasonably hot and therefore we go out early when it is "relatively" cool... and have more interaction with the people to people when the day gets hotter.

Our first activity is a lecture from 8AM to 9AM where a city planner gives us the background on the founding and growth of Havana with city maps and various photos of architectural styles over the course of time and growth.  Excellent information and a good basis for our walk which began immediately after the lecture.  

here is a little bit of background on the development of the city and its current restoration- from wikipedia... and severely edited to a manageable summary by me- LOL

Havana began as a trading port, and suffered regular attacks by buccaneers, pirates, and French corsairs. Ships from all over the New World carried products first to Havana, in order to be taken by the fleet to Spain. The thousands of ships gathered in the city's bay also fueled Havana's agriculture and manufacture, since they had to be supplied with food, water, and other products needed to traverse the ocean.  By the middle of the 18th century Havana had more than seventy thousand inhabitants, and was the third-largest city in the Americas, ranking behind Lima and Mexico City but ahead of Boston and New York.  As trade between Caribbean and North American states increased in the early 19th century, Havana became a flourishing and fashionable city. Havana's theaters featured the most distinguished actors of the age, and prosperity among the burgeoning middle-class led to expensive new classical mansions being erected. During this period Havana became known as the Paris of the Antilles.

During the Republican Period, from 1902 to 1959, the city saw a new era of development. Cuba recovered from the devastation of war to become a well-off country, with the third largest middle class in the hemisphere. Apartment buildings to accommodate the new middle class, as well as mansions for the Cuban tycoons, were built at a fast pace. Numerous luxury hotels, casinos and nightclubs were constructed during the 1930s to serve Havana's burgeoning tourist industry. At the time, Havana became an exotic capital of numerous activities ranging from marinas, grand prix car racing, musical shows and parks. In 1958, about 300,000 American tourists visited the city.

In Old Havana, effort has also gone into rebuilding for tourist purposes, and a number of streets and squares have been rehabilitated. But Old Havana is a large city, and the restoration efforts concentrate in all on less than 10% of its area.  Contemporary Havana can essentially be described as three cities in one: Old Havana, Vedado, and the newer suburban districts. Old Havana, with its narrow streets and overhanging balconies, is the traditional centre of part of Havana's commerce, industry, and entertainment, as well as being a residential area.

To the north and west a newer section, centred on the uptown area known as Vedado, has become the rival of Old Havana for commercial activity and nightlife. Centro Habana, sometimes described as part of Vedado, is mainly a shopping district that lies between Vedado and Old Havana. The Capitolio Nacional building marks the beginning of Centro Habana, a working-class neighborhood. Chinatown and the Real Fabrica de Tabacos Partagás, one of Cuba's oldest cigar factories is located in the area.  A third Havana is that of the more affluent residential and industrial districts that spread out mostly to the west. Among these is Marianao, one of the newer parts of the city, dating mainly from the 1920s. Some of the suburban exclusivity was lost after the revolution, many of the suburban homes having been nationalized by the Cuban government to serve as schools, hospitals, and government offices. Several private country clubs were converted to public recreational centres. Miramar, located west of Vedado along the coast, remains Havana's exclusive area; mansions, foreign embassies, diplomatic residences, upscale shops, and facilities for wealthy foreigners are common in the area.

In the 1980s many parts of Old Havana, including the Plaza de Armas, became part of a projected 35-year multimillion-dollar restoration project, for Cubans to appreciate their past and boost tourism. In the past ten years, with the assistance of foreign aid large parts of Habana Vieja have been renovated. The city is moving forward with renovations, and most of the major plazas (Plaza Vieja, Plaza de la Catedral, Plaza de San Francisco and Plaza de Armas) and major tourist streets (Obispo and Mercaderes) near completion.  Due to Havana's almost five hundred-year existence, the city boasts some of the most diverse styles of architecture in the world, from castles built in the late 16th century to modernist present-day high-rises.

We head to Cathedral Square, one of the four main plazas in Habana Vieja...  




















we move along to the Plaza Mayor where the streets are paved in wood!









then it is off to the senior center where we meet up with people from all walks of life and former professions- including a man and a woman both of whom had been professional singers/opera singers







participating in a sing-a-long everyone gets into the act!






maybe I can get a video to load for a little idea of the group-


here is the church where the senior center is located-








then we are headed out and back to Old Havana for a quick post lunch stop at the art/handicraft market where you can find crap in all shapes and sizes - and on the way home I get a few shots of cars and political graffiti and scenery before we stop at the foot of the Prado and walk back to the hotel from there- but there are so many more photos of the day I will have to include those in another post...




 escaped from the tourist trap- I found cars across the street and Coco taxis around the corner...








so on we go - the Prado has a number of interesting buildings which typify the various architectural periods and stages of renovation - but as I said that is for another post! stay tuned....

Friday, January 1, 2016

day one Cuba continues....

So as I mentioned before- we had a very nice lunch- the place - called Divino was located outside the city and had a small organic farm behind the house/restaurant.  Since I was in Cuba last (roughly four years earlier) the growth of the paladar (private restaurants) was the first and most obvious difference in Cuba. While there the last time, we ate in mostly state owned restaurants (which having first dibs on the best food sources- were excellent for the most part.) We had a meal at one paladar on the planned itinerary during the first trip and we ate at two others when meals were "on our own."

Now the bulk of our meals will be at paladars - which for the most part - are out of the economic reach for most Cubans but which are a real and growing source of private income for the families that have turned their front rooms of their houses (or built an addition for a dining room) into restaurants.
This meal was excellent as well- simple but delicious. After the meal had concluded we had our first people to people discussion with a local artist whose work was displayed in the restaurant.  I will show a number of his works - this show focused exclusively on Fidel and the artist's hyper-real style made the works quite compelling.





the artist told us the story behind the painting in the photo below - when he was young his dad took him to see Fidel give a speech and they had to stand behind a fence - he was so small that even when they held him up to the fence he could only see Fidel's hat - so that was what Fidel looked like to him...


these paintings are in large format which I think works marvelously with the giant personality cult surrounding Fidel- he is larger than life in so many ways - even in the view of the U.S.


we had a private room but the restaurant is mostly located on a beautiful terrace overlooking the farm and gardens...




after hearing from the artist we went into the farm - the first stop was at an old style farm house which is used sometimes for events and serves as a coffee shop and also from time to time a senior community center...










you can see what terrifically beautiful blue skies we had- however it was unseasonably warm and humid the whole trip- roughly ten degrees warmer than usual and the locals were not pleased as many do not have AC and would like overnight cooling for sleeping-



as we left we came face to face with a cute blue car with a fun shadow that gave it a wave pattern - as if it were saying "hello! welcome to Cuba" - which was pretty much the response we got from everyone we met during our almost two weeks there- a huge smile, a warm welcome and if they spoke with us they said how happy they were that we were there.... a big open hearted place when it comes to the people and since we were on a people-to-people trip - that was our experience across the board.


we checked into our hotel after a short briefing session (hello Mike???? BRIEF!) and found a very nice room 310- with working AC and working hot water but not so much cold...LOL- we learned on day one the reply to complaints about things like this were pretty much the same all over- "so sorry, this is Cuba..."

we gathered again later in the evening to head to another paladar (privately owned restaurant) called La Moraleja (as in "the moral of the story is...")


there we had a terrific family style meal with pork, beef, lobster and more and (I think) the soon to be standard dessert of flan- LOL I didn't take photos so am not 100% certain... there was music (another thing that we will ALWAYS have is music with dinner and also with most lunches..)


And, of course there was a welcome drink - again a standard offering. When I was here last, this was also the case, but now things have changed somewhat- they were served with rum every time last time - this time they were served virgin and then the server asked who wanted rum and how much and went around the table or room and made them virtually "to order"- a big improvement. As with last time,  when Jennifer and I found this a delightful practice - I did so again, and even Phil who had not been a huge rum fan beforehand became a fan during the trip.


and since it was the last night of Hanukkah, Raul had brought along a Hanukiah to light - the group is, not surprisingly, half Jewish- LOL... since the trip returns to the U.S. on December 23rd - this made sense to us...


at the end of the meal they passed around a box of cigars so we could each chose one for ourselves- LOL and with nearly everything in Cuba being "currency" Raul encouraged us to each take one as he had a place later on to drop off the cigars where they would be appreciated and perhaps be turned into something else which could then be passed along to someone in need to the next item...


Phil shows the size and we take our two and later pass them to Raul on the bus ride back to the hotel- for his plastic bag in which to carry them for us... it is loaded by the time the group of 20 "gifts" their cigars to him (no one smokes cigarettes in the group though a few will buy the cigars allotted for import through U.S. customs - another change since last trip when you could not bring even a single one into the U.S.)


and just so you aren't in suspense for weeks - here is the guy they went to - a coffee farmer from the Escambray Mountains who is in his mid eighties and isn't planning on stopping his cigar smoking - and who is thrilled to get GOOD cigars rather than what he can afford to buy in the store in the nearby (but not very!) town of Trinidad....


and he is the father of the mystery cowboy from a prior post- LOL - the one with the soviet "N"s on his hat... both  guys were terrific to talk to about coffee planting and harvesting and how the family business worked- but more on that later -


We all had gotten up before 4:30 AM and so were pretty much zombies by the end of our meal.  I can't say what the others did after returning to the hotel, but we went right to sleep! Day two coming up - and highlights include a walk through a few plazas in Old Havana (Habana Vieja) and the opera star seniors from the retirement center... so stay tuned!