Sunday, April 5, 2026

more Saralt scenes and food

So here's a traveler's tale from the past. In 1995 my mother and I traveled for three plus weeks in the western half of France. We flew into Paris and drove to Giverny. After spending midday at Monet's house and garden we went on to Jumieges Abbey (another story, not this one) and spent the first night in the wonderful port town of Honfleur.  On through Normandy, parts of Brittany with two nights in Mt St Michel on the island. Then on through the Loire for four or five days staying in the beautiful village of Chenonceau. We snaked our way down through the western half of France and ended up for about a week in the Dordogne. In Sarlat we absolutely positively had to get some laundry done. Now I have to remind you that this was in the era before widespread Internet access and pre Google maps etc. So, while walking around town we found a small shop to take in laundry. We had been washing underwear in hotels but by this time we needed clothes laundered. We walked to the shop on the main street with our bundle of things and the woman there (no surprise in 1995 in rural France 30+ years ago) spoke no English. My high school French was already 20+ years in the past and so I was capable of only a few basic words. 

I laugh because I can still vividly remember having a full "conversation" with the welcoming lady. This area was off the beaten path back then so she was interested in how we got here and how long we had been traveling and where we had been before arriving. I mostly understood the questions but as any language student will tell you: speaking is far more difficult than comprehension. I have, however, a distinct recollection of reverting to charades-style communication. I mimed driving a car holding a steering wheel and tuning it back and forth while the lady thankful brought forth the word I could not come up with. VOITURE!  Why do I mention this? Because the place we took the laundry is the building that now only shows the ghost sign in the photo below. Time marches on. But seeing that sign I had a "blast from the past."

Lunch - getting better - Monday we went to a place called Entre 2. We chose the menu and had different choices for each segment. Marked on the menu.








The afternoon did not turn out to be as rainy as expected so we did get a chance to be out a bit before dinner. More stunning architecture. Because it was a Monday many stores were closed which only helped keep those pesky people  out of my photos 🤣. (In that respect, I always say the best trip I ever took was to Cambodia and Vietnam with Jennifer Bater in the year of SARS Brilliant timing on our part!)













our location: in red box with the arrow- 






That night,  a different kind of dinner, a lovely little gastro bar type place where the focus was on wine and a variety of foods, with everything being served as small plates. Our choices were marked. Favorite dish was the langoustino ravioli  in a fab sauce! Also liked the terrine. Had a Macon Rouge to drink. Both desserts were good as well. Next time I'd skip this prep of black cod. Just not good. Service was outstanding and the restaurant's playlist was designed for me. 










another atmospheric walk home- 





So our next afternoon went like this: Decent lunch on the main street of Sarlat. Many more shops open today and the souvenir places that were all hidden (closed) on Sunday and Monday - have reappeared. We walked in the very touristic part of town for a few blocks but fairly quickly worked our way to the backstreets, off the tourist path. This is the Sarlat I remember from previous trips in 1996 and 2008. And I am happy to report that even thirty years after my first trip here I find this place charming. Selection of photos (hard to choose favorites) of all the segments of the afternoon "out and about"... 



First lunch, above and then through the shopping area...










Then we headed to the west side of the main drag and up into the streets of "the real Sarlat" IMO- 




















that night we went to L'adresse which was another very good restaurant. On Tuesday night, we walked across the small town to a lovely place with attentive service. The agneau dish was not available instead a beef tataki was subbed. Nice walk home but the chilly weather made it a brisk one.
















This brings us to the end of March. A diofficult winter for weather all over Europe so not surprising that when we headed north it was still chilly and had the possibility of rain. But on to Arpil.

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