Sunday, November 2, 2025

at home for a bit

Two nights meals. Phil arrived from the States Tuesday afternoon so we dined early at Islamorada. He had eaten half the Huelva white shrimp by the time I remembered to take a photo. We also had a presa Iberico that was missed altogether.




Then Wednesday night, because we had huge storms and flooding all day, the reservation we had for soup on the "chilly" day had to be abandoned due to no power in the building or actually on most of the block. So we walked in the direction of lights and ended up at La Piemontesa for a shared salad and pizza (all fine) but the postres were what salvaged the evening. I had the strawberry ice cream (strawberries only, not vanilla with strawberry) and fresh strawberries with cream. Phil had the Nutella crepe. So that was our rain for pretty much for the whole month a bit last weekend for part of one day. But it poured today and a lot of lightning, sometimes right overhead. Quite the show.







The next night we had dinner at Casa Juan Paloma. A great neighborhood bar near the Plaza de la Pescaderia. We had the three marked menu items. Arroz, carpaccio de gambas, and the anchovies. Friendly service and good food. Two drinks, water, and three courses for 45€. What's not to love? PS they have the best traditional tortilla in town here. You can choose with or without (a big debate) onions. We like it "with"... But neither of us was hungry enough to order it tonight - one size - smaller but larger enough to share.






Friday night Italian again. We met up with Natalia (one of Phil's Spanish teachers). We haven't seen her since the spring when she introduced us to Janet & Mike.  The restaurant is serviceable but not brilliant (although I do like their pizza crust better than some of the other options nearby.) We all had a "starchy" main after sharing the pizza tartufada as a starter. I had the risotto, Phil had the carbonara and Natalia had shrimp ravioli. We shared a bottle of chianti and stopped to see Helena at MITO on the way home. Tomorrow night, a first for us, a concert at the Teatro Maestranza. A guitar virtuoso. A dinner after at a new (to us) place.  #expatlife






Then Saturday night came around and... Some nights are a complete miss. We went to a concert of a well known flamenco guitarist at the Teatro Maestranza (our concert hall in Sevilla.) The guitarist, Rafael Riqueni was an excellent guitarist.
Here is some more info on his artistry from M Wikipedia. Rafael Riqueni del Canto (Sevilla, August 16, 1962), is a Spanish guitar player and composer. He is considered as one of the biggest names or “Maestros” in flamenco guitar history. At age fourteen, he won the two main national awards for flamenco guitar in Spain. As an adult, he has won the most prestigious flamenco music awards in Spain, including: Premio Andalucía de Cultura, Premio Nacional de la Crítica, Giraldillo a la Maestría de la XVIII Bienal de Flamenco y el Premio AIE. In 2017, he was awarded with XXXI Compás del Cante, this award is always referred to by the Spanish media as the "Flamenco Nobel prize". 

Unfortunately in my opinion the program was marred by two other performers. A young man vocalist who had a lot of hair that he kept flicking back from his face and then he'd lean forward to emote into his vocalizations and it would fall back in front of his face. And the cycle would start all over again. Clearly his hair stole the show. At one point I could only think he must be wailing about his dead cat (not understanding the words left me to make up my own interpretations LOL) As bad as that was, at one point a woman came on and did a sort of interpretive/flamenco style dance. Her demeanor was very dark, dressed in all black and scowling throughout the performance. I wondered if both the performers were doing something surrounding mourning and it would figure as a possibility because it is the dead of the dead today (November 1st).

So we decided to cut out at intermission. And headed to the place we had reserved for dinner. It is a beautiful restaurant and the two women working the front of the house were as pleasant as they could be. The dinner rolls were also very good.  But the rest of the report, not so much. My salmon tartare tasted too fishy to be truly fresh. My lubina was overcooked and didn't come with the things described on the menu. Phil fared a bit better as he was happy with his pork dish although he said he wished the foie had been less sizable and higher quality. 

But the real kicker was they had neither of the wines we wanted to order and the server insisted that we needed a much heavier red than we desired since we were ordering both fish and meat. We asked about the other wines listed under the blends and were informed that none of them were available. ???? So we shared a glass of decent Ribera del Duero and gave up the quest for the wine we wanted to drink.
 
So all in all - not the best evening we've had in Sevilla but we did try two new things. We can now safely say. We'd go back to that venue, it was very nice. And we would not return to the restaurant.













So that brings us to Sunday and a dinner with Janet and Mike at Hiyoki and the beginning of a new week... we are headed on Thursday to Madrid to spend time with Megan & Christian and Oscar & Candela.

Monday, October 27, 2025

gratitude

Finally some cooler weather. So on my way home from coffee I stopped for a few moments in Plaza Nueva. It's fall so the plane trees are going a bit yellow readying to drop their leaves. Our orange trees stay green during that time as do the palms scattered throughout this plaza perimeter. The oranges are just beginning - they will drop later after they are ORANGE 🍊🍊🍊 Then it will be time for the fabulous scent of orange blossoms to fill our city (March.) Today (despite a line of people fully encircling the Cathedral and  huge crowds - for unknown reasons) I am feeling particularly grateful that I get to live in this beautiful city.






Phil returns from his 2.5 weeks in Chicago tomorrow - so back to our regular routines. Stay tuned.

The surprising Casa Salinas

What I wrote on the way home from my home tour today at Casa de Salinas:

Here's the thing. Life can always bring you surprises. This was my fourth house visit in two weeks and I expected it would be the least impressive but I was so wrong. It was my favorite. It's a home that is lived in and the owners open it up certain days but still use all the rooms (I could smell garlic from the private space when I was in the dining room.) The audio guide is delightful with both history and personal observations about living in the house. I have a lot of photos to share but now I am sitting in a cafe having a really tasty cafe con leche and some water before heading home. Too many photos for the phone signal. But this was a surprise and absolute winner. A gem.

As I said in the intro to my visit earlier. I was not expecting to be wowed by this house. It is in the oldest and most densely built area of the city. It was the oldest and smallest of the four I was seeing, and it has no garden. 

However my expectations were totally out of whack. This was by far the most charming of the four. Not only was the house a small gem of architecture, the audio guide was narrated by a family member. It is still very much an inhabited home. The narration was a perfect mix of history of the ownership of the Casa as well as information about the part the casa played in social events here and various personal stories about the house. An example was a reminder to watch your step going into the study and a reminiscence of how frequently the narrator and his brothers tripped on it. 

Despite other houses having larger space or more beautiful gardens or an outstanding art and antiquities collection this one was a true standout for its warmth and charm. It ended up being my favorite visit of the four. 

Each of the four was worth the time to explore because each has something unique to offer those who visited. I am happy I made the effort to see these treasures of Sevilla.  
































pay attention to the stained glass here - this was the only view of the windows along the upper floor that was backlit so you could see their beauty. Later I saw in the tienda that hey had used them for inspiration for the design of some lovely scarves.










here are items from the store - it wasn't really a gift shop - too well curated for that- but they had chosen some nice mementos of a visit to Casa de Salinas






the view as you exit the casa


so that wraps up my four visits - hope you enjoyed seeing these homes as much as I did.  More to follow, as usual.