Wednesday, October 14, 2026

long long ago

 

This photo was taken Tuesday morning on approach to MAD Suarezz aiprort. But it reminded me so much of arrivng on my first trip to Spain. It was April of 1999. I arrived the day before my mother who was coming from Anna Maria Island (so I assume now that meant Tampa) and I had come from Chicago. 

And one from 1999 - 

It is strange how some things just stick depsite it being more than a quarter century ago. I remember going to a hotel near the airport and it seemed very rural by comparison to the O'Hare area hotels. But if vague, my distinct recollections of the day were two.  

One, the shade for the window in my small hotel room was a complete novelty. It was a metal shade on the outside of the window and it was part way down. I wanted the room dark to sleep and could not figure out how to make it work (no remote! - ah Americans!) I called the front desk and the guy came to my room and showed me that inside the window frame was a wide fabric tape that raised and lowered the shade and when it was fully lowered the room was pitch black. When it was nearly lowered it had small holes in betwen the metal slats theat let in light but kep the room darkened. and it could go up completely and disappear. Fabulous! Still one of the best ways I have seen.  Security and shade all in one. 


above- tape shown to the left of the window.

The second was that as we came in to land at the airport I could only think of dotted swiss material as we flew low over fields and fields and fields of olive groves.  

Here I will apologize for the antiquated photos: film, rangfinder camera, and then scanned decades later at a high speed scanner company that would do a whole box for a flat rate. (I had 15,000 photosa scanned.) When my mother arrived we got a car and drove to Toledo our first stop. We had planned this trtip for fifteen+ days exploring Andalucia. 




We spent two nights here overlooking the city from the parador. We took a cab into the city to explore the sites. Then we headed to Ubeda for the Parador (we only styed in Paradors on this trip.)  We went to a number of pueblas blancos and stopped in Ronda, Arcos de la Frontera, Carmona, Cordoba, Granada (where we stayed in the Alhambra) and finally a number of days in Madrid. 

Our trip had its challenging moments mostly due to the fact that my extremly recent Michelin Road map was out of date as they had literally a month before renumberd all the roads to coordinate with their EU status. LOL So we relied upon roundabouts with "direction to X" as our route LOL

Some photos from long long ago- with captions if I can figure out where we were.

The view from our room in the parador in Arcos de la Frontera


Quite possibly Sevilla  but could be Carmona, or Arcos- LOL 


The Adriatico Building (which is right across the street from my current bank in Spain!)


The Giralda in Sevilla - nearly 20 years ago- 


The Plaza in front of the Alcazar - I loved the Alcazar and Sevilla so much I decided to go to Morocco the very next year.


View of the bull ring in Sevilla from thje top of the Giralda. We live just off the lower right hand corner of the picture now. Such a strange thing and I so wish my mother could see us now - she would be totally in love with the choices we have made to move to Spain.


Pictures from my first visit to the Mezquite in Cordoba




And the Alhambra






oru room was in this courtyard of the convento (now parador) of the Alhambra-


Some views of Ronda





Ubeda (and Jaen - which we did from Ubeda)


The view from our room


my first glimpse of a local procession- this was in Arcos-


A few from Madrid 




It was a great trip and one of the last ones where my mother was in good enough health to fully participate. She was diagnosed with breast cancer in the later part of 1999 and never went to Morocco with me (she had been before.) Although she lived another ten years her health got worse. In 2002 we took a trip to the Baltics with my Aunt - just we three - and she fell and things got wosre. But she rallied and came on my first Croatia trip with me (brought my Aunt as her roomate and helper) but that was 2005 and after that I think she only did river cruises in North America. Other than China (in 1987) she never saw Asia and she never got to South America but she still (for her cohort) was an intrepid explroer. 

I became a better photographer because that way she could "go" on the trips with me, as I continued my travels. And when she died, I scattered her ashes for years in countries she had never visited, as a way for her to keep on exploring the world. 💔💝

Phil arrives

 So Phil arrived in Spain on Friday afternoon around 4PM. He said the trip went smoothly so he was only very tired. We went to Islamorada for the firts night of his return. Dinner at 6:30!!! I didn't get photos of everything as we were mostly catching up after nearly three weeks of not seeing each other. We had our usual favorite and not shown the carrillera (pork cheeks) which was wonderfully tasty as usual. 





Then the folwoing night we went to Casapuerta to see Blanca and let her know we were back- she was very happy to see us. Again - not everything is shown - I had a special roulade of beef with spinach and Phil had a steak. 




Then on Sunday, we went to Barra Canabota. Celebrating Phil's birthday. Service was very good. It would be better in a larger group (4+) as then a whole fish would be appropriate. Loved the ginger soy sauce they served with the fish. It was translated into "forkfish" Bròtola. "It's a prized white fish in Mediterranean cuisine, especially popular in Spain. Its meat is incredibly lean, tender, and delicate." (AI told us)  Also on offer Merluza and something they translated to "dogfish." Since we had previously tried the other two of three choices, we chose the unknown. My fish review: nice flavor and texture, but way too many little bones. The "cocktail" of seafood and fish was really tasty and an "order again" item. Oysters briny but a tad on the large side for my taste. Amazing stuffed giant olives and an "always favorite" of anchoas rounded out our choices. Overall, I think it would be a better venue for 4+ people but I'd go back if we had a group.










Monday we visited the new location of an old favortie of ours (we went the first month we came as residents to Spain.)  Here's a little baclkground on our now revamped Manolo Mayo on Reyes Catolicos. From a very recent review:

"Restaurante Manolo Mayo first opened its doors in Los Palacios (Sevilla) over fifty years ago . In 2021 they opened their first Sevilla location in Calle Reyes Católicos, offering dishes that defined their culinary journey over the decades. This month a new chapter begins as the Mayo family moves to new premises in the 5 Star GL Thompson Hotel in Plaza de la Concordia." (from Tapas Bars in Sevilla website)

It was pretty abysmmal in some ways and lovely in others - the server was super nice but the kitchen was extremely sluggish. Tehy weren't really that busy with diners - some tapas stuff at the bar. But it literally took hours so a simple two course meal. The outdoor space is beautiful (as befitting a five star hotel) but they aren't ready for prime time. 




by the time our two rice dishes arrived I was clealry not intrested in reocrding hte evening LOL.  The next morning we weere up early for a government appointment to get Phil updated for his empadronamiento. Another trip across the river, this time to get Phil's registration renewed. A success, mostly due to the fact that we were now familiar with the process. It's good to have a scout!


Some local signage that I saw along the way these last few days 




Wednesday night we have Augurio and Thursday Desacato.... so more to follow before I leave town for a day trip on Friday. 

We went to visit our buddies at Augurio. We dined outside. We had all our favorites. The crispy tacos with pez mantequilla. The steak tartare bombitas with quail egg. The tuna triptico (three ways.) Foie gras with sliced apple compote.(Not shown - the presa Iberica.) We followed with a late evening visit to Helena at MITO where we had two free gelatos on our rewards points.






Rounding out his first week home - Desacato.












Now he's been here a week and is mostly back on the right time zone and into the groove of Living in Spain.