back from the islands

 we are back from vacation in the Canaries- 

We returned Sunday night and had dinner at Islamorada - it seems to have become our go to for travel days---

I spied this on the walk home- been by here a few dozen times but never noticed this - it's higher on the wall and it's a busy street where we are usually dodging traffic - 

One of our regular places. A comfort food place where we can relax knowing the food (whatever we choose) will be good and the service friendly. Manuel and Blanca are the nicest, most welcoming people. We dined here in mid February 2023 and have been going back regularly since then. When we left Sevilla the first time  March 31, 2023 we told them we'd be back. When we returned with our residence visas December 26, 2023 we went to Casapuerta during our first week here. We have never stopped having this place in our rotation of regular dining options.

Wednesday night's dinner - a regular haunt Tradevo Centro. We had tacos gambón, the berberechos (cockles), roast pork on brioche with truffled cheese and a cabracho (scorpionfish). The first photo was taken on the way home, a cold and rainy night - I have never seen this plaza bar so deserted!

This is what it looks like when you live in a UNESCO world heritage site. It would take you nearly twenty minutes to drive to to Tradevo Centro  restaurant but it's half the time for walking. Exactly why we don't need a car...

Manolo Mayo has become one of our go-to places over time. We first went in early January 2024 when we had Lee, Nick, Larry, Megan & Christian visiting us shortly after we arrived in Sevilla, before we even found a place to rent long term.  We all liked it, so we've been returning since; more and more as we settle into a rotation of solid choices. Tonight I ordered the house made Vermú and Phil had a glass of Emilio Morro red. Then we split a large tomato salad. He ordered the foie gras and presa with frites and I had the carpaccio (one of the better of many strong choices here in SVQ.) Still cold and rainy, we had hail today! So we came directly home, no stop for MITO.  However, we did spend time today with Helena and her mother at coffee and then met her step-dad and little sister afterward. Her mom is an English teacher in Rio de Janeiro so we had a chance to spend time with Mom. Helena is the only one in this immediate family who speaks Spanish/English/Portuguese and a bit of Italian (oh to have the neuro linguistic pathways of a 21 year old!

For Saturday we reserved for dinner at Señora Pan a place where we had coffee break every day during our language immersion school term. They no longer serve coffee but they do have breakfast lunch and dinner and we like the guy who runs the place very much so we decided to give it a try for dinner.   

Phil was half way finished with the paella de mariscos when we remembered the photo. We shared the house made lasagna and the ribs with the BBQ sauce perfected by the owner for his lady (who handles the bar.) 

We had been to Señora Pan every school day for the six weeks we were in language immersion classes in the spring of 2023 for our coffee break. Later we found they didn't really do coffee anymore just meals (breakfast, lunch, and dinner) so we stopped once last year for lunch which we liked but until tonight we hadn't been to dinner there.

We will definitely return. The place has been spruced up with nicer chairs and cushions and the food was good. Many things on the menu were under consideration but when the owner showed us a photo of the special we went for the baked lasagna. 

The owner is a real service oriented guy. I remember that one morning at a coffee break a member of our class wanted peanut butter on toast (not really a thing here) and the owner said "not today but I can have it for you tomorrow." And the next morning I passed him on the street bringing a jar of peanut butter out of the Carrefour Express so Brent could have his peanut butter. 

So yes, we will go back. And if our gluten free Leslies (we have two of them) come to visit, this is a place for them. Gluten free breads and desserts along with mini arepa appetizers and other options. Salads and many protein choices.

So next Sunday - February arrives! and we are now well into 2026... more to come - of course....

some things about Spain...

 We have learned a lot since we came here on February 14, 2023. I was reminiscing a few days ago when I could not remember the difference between the word for ice cream and ice (helado and hielo.)  I am still a very beginning Spanish speaker who knows a lot of words (muchas palabras) but speaking in more than broken phrases in present tense have yet to be mastered... LOL but I get along on smiles and a willingness to try speaking. 

But recently I came across three posts that were so elucidating that I reposted them - and here they are...

I love love love this - all true and yes. It's just a part of our lives now. 

Moving to Spain comes with a moment — actually, many moments — where you realise: “Oh. This is my life now.”

Here are a few classics that every expat eventually lives through:

1. Bread is no longer optional

You arrived thinking, “Bread for breakfast? Weird.”

Now you panic if there’s no toast, olive oil, tomato, or jamón before 9 a.m.

2. You stop asking when people are leaving the table

At first you thought something was wrong.

Now you know: the meal ends when the conversation does.

3. Roundabouts stop feeling chaotic… and start feeling personal

Rules exist.

But intuition, eye contact, and confidence matter more.

4. Hazard lights = temporary permission

Double blinkers on?

Congratulations, your car is now invisible and socially accepted. For a bit.

5. Dinner at 6 p.m. feels… concerning

You’ve learned that 6 is not dinner.

It’s a snack pretending to be responsible.

6. Ordering coffee becomes a personality test

You used to say “coffee.”

Now you say cortado, con leche, solo, largo, manchado, nube— and judge others quietly.

7. Closed shops stop surprising you

At first: confusion.

Now: respect.

Maybe even jealousy.

8. The beach teaches you emotional maturity

Bodies exist.

Everyone’s fine.

You move on.

9. “Mañana” stops meaning tomorrow

It means: not now.

Which honestly… feels healthier.

10. You stop trying to understand every fiesta

You just show up.

Eat.

Drink.

Enjoy.

Repeat.

At some point, Spain stops feeling “different”

and starts feeling… normal.

And that’s when you know you’re really here.

And the other one was a delineation of "bar" types - Since we moved to Spain we have learned some of the info contained in this excellent "treatise" on BARS in Spain. Someone told me - "Here, we live on the streets." And we have found that to be true. My immersion teacher said that we shouldn't expect to be invited to anyone's home "like they do in the United States" because the home is for family and extended family. So yes, the bar is a living room here and serves many purposes. The post clarifies the role of each type of establishment. I found it enlightening but it is getting "in the weeds."

If you’re new to Spain, one of the first things you notice (after the coffee confusion) is this: Why are there SO MANY bars… and why do they all mean different things?

Welcome to Spain, where “Let’s grab a drink” can mean fourteen completely different experiences depending on the sign outside.

Let’s break it down by style:

Restaurante

Serious business. Tables. Menus. Starters, mains, dessert, sobremesa. You came hungry and you’re staying a while.

Venta

Usually outside town. Roadside. Country vibes. Portions are huge, napkins are paper, food is honest, and the Manolo behind the bar knows everyone.

Taberna

Old-school. Wine, vermut, simple tapas. Probably smells like history (and garlic). Locals only. You’re doing it right if there’s nowhere to sit.

Tabanco (Andalucía, especially Jerez)

Wine from the barrel. Standing up. Flamenco might break out without warning. No one is in a hurry. Ever.

Tasca

No frills. Cheap beer. Basic food. Plastic chairs. Zero aesthetics, maximum soul.

Bar

The backbone of Spain. Coffee in the morning. Beer at noon. Wine at night. Life happens here.

Gastrobar

A bar that went to culinary school. Smaller plates, prettier presentations, higher prices… still very social.

Cafetería

Coffee, toast, pastries. Breakfast headquarters. Also acceptable at any hour because… Spain.

Chiringuito

Beach bar. Fried fish. Cold beer. Sandy feet welcome. Time disappears here.

Cervecería

Beer-focused. Often loud. Often packed. You came for “one caña” and somehow it’s midnight.

Cantina

Community vibes. Simple food. Usually attached to something (sports club, association, feria). Surprisingly good.

Rooftop

Views, cocktails, sunsets, photos. Less Manolo, more Instagram… but we’ll allow it.

Pub

Late night. Music. Guinness exists. You’ll hear three languages at once.

Now here’s the fun fact that explains everything:

Spain has roughly one bar for every 170–180 people.

Yes. Really.

Bars here are not just places to drink.

They’re living rooms.

Offices.

Therapy sessions.

Social hubs.

Daily rituals.

They’re where Manolo knows your order, your kids, your problems, and exactly when to pour another one without asking.

And here are some more things everyone should know - LOL

Spain is a country full of warmth, chaos, laughter…

and unwritten rules so deeply ingrained that nobody even notices they’re following them — until a foreigner asks “…but why?”

So here it is.
The ultimate list of Spanish Unwritten Rules — the cultural software downloaded into every Spaniard at birth.

 1. Lunch time is sacred. Non-negotiable.

At 2 PM, you are hungry.
Doesn’t matter if you ate at noon.
Doesn’t matter if you’re not hungry.

The clock hits 14:00 → your stomach obeys.

 2. Food has seasons, and breaking them is heresy.

Summer = gazpacho, salmorejo, sardinas
Winter = lentejas, cocido, caldo
December = polvorones, turrón
January 6 = Roscón (ONLY roscón)
November 1 = Huesos de Santo

Ask for lentejas in August and watch a Spaniard short-circuit.

 3. Paella is eaten at lunchtime. Preferably Sunday.

Paella for dinner?
Psychologically impossible.
Against natural law.

 4. Roundabouts: the outer lane is your forever home.

Logic says no.
Spain says yes.
Driving school says:
“If you’re in the outer lane, it’s never your fault.”

And that’s all it took.

 5. Breakfast ends at 11 AM. After that, toast becomes illegal.

Try ordering toast at 11:05.
Watch the waiter look at you like you just confessed a crime.

 6. Everyone drinks anís at Christmas. Nobody likes it.

We don’t drink it for the taste.
We drink it because it’s tradition and peer pressure in liquid form.

 7. Polvorón Protocol:

You MUST:
• punch it
• squeeze it
• punch it again
• make it into a ball
• THEN eat it

If you try to eat it straight from the wrapper, that’s on you.
Enjoy choking on Christmas dust.

 8. Beach Season Is a Mindset — NOT a temperature.

29°C in April?
Not beach season.

19°C in September?
Beach season is over anyway.

Perfect beach day ≠ beach season.

 9. Greetings escalate quickly.

Someone you met 3 minutes ago?
Dos besos.
Someone’s aunt’s cousin?
Also dos besos.
Delivery guy?
Depends on the region. Stay ready.

 10. If someone invites you for coffee, cancel your afternoon plans.

“Un café rápido” = 90 minutes minimum.
Three coffees and two pieces of gossip later → THAT is a quick one.

 11. Never swimm right after eating. IT’S DANGEROUS.

Grandma says so.
Science doesn’t matter.

 12. 21°C is cold if it happens indoors.

Spanish houses in winter are colder than outside.
Scarves, blankets, gloves, and inner suffering required.

So on we go- we are back in Sevilla and have the trainer three times this week due to ten days on vacation... back to IRL... LOL

January vacation (part 3)

Wednesday night dinner was at MORAL - an excellent Bib Gourmand choice. 

we managed most of the menu between the five of us- 

the winning starter was the carpaccio

the winning main was rabbit - YUM!

and then the next day the three exercise folks left us in town for lunch so Phil and I went for a coffee and sandwich at La Escala and did a walk around town for a bit- 

we stopped for ice cream on the way at Lucky Helado - I chose an excellent coffee/amaretto.

Thursday we had dinner at KIKI'S (we ate there twice last year!) Our third time at this restaurant and it's still going strong. Fabulous and extremely patient service. An extensive menu of creative sushi, sashimi, maki, and more. Everyone loved the things they chose and there was more than enough to share.

a shared dessert - 

Then Phil and I had a burger lunch on Friday (this place is only open for lunch two days a week!) Lunch today - down and dirty burger joint right next to the tram tracks. It had the best burgers last year so we had to return. Still an excellent burger place with crispy fries. Messy but tasty meal!

We walked home by the plaza where our apartment last year was located.

Dinner Friday night was at Nielsen and another winner!

pan cristal - a favorite of the table- 

pear and blue cheese salad - YUM Suzanne and I both ordered this!

cappuccino of seafood for Phil

Steak tartare for Lee's starter - he LOVED it...

tuna starter

Suzanne and I both ordered the chicken - it was so tender and juicy - really excellent

Phil had the suckling pig 

Lee had the fish 

Steve had a steak 

A few good desserts - the coulant de chocolate for Phil

After Eight - mint foam with a spoon of ice cream and chocolate sauce underneath 

 green apple sorbet  mixed with vanilla ice cream topped with cotton candy-

So that was our last dinner together as Lee was headed to Madrid mid day Saturday and S&S were headed to a luxury resort on the other side of the island Saturday after lunch.  We went to a Tasca for lunch on Saturday before the group dispersed.  It was very "atmospheric" LOL

Phil and I packed and tidied up the apartment for leaving in the morning and took a cab to dinner (walked home) again at Etereo. For our last dinner in Santa Cruz we returned to Etéreo for some more great dining. I got Lee's dessert from the other night an intense chocolate molten cake with ice cream. I had Suzanne's main from the other night a kind of poké bowl of red tuna with some avocado and wakame. Phil returned for his same two courses plus a starter of white asparagus. I had the same tiradito starter as the first visit. Our server the prior visit was much more personable but the service overall was impeccable. Lee flew to Madrid this afternoon and S&S headed to the resort side of Tenerife for some beach time. Fun times with family.

the day we left - was high winds and heavy fog up at the airport - I felt like we were waiting for the "plane to Lisbon." We were headed back home to Sevilla but the Tenerife Norte Aeroporto was having a lot of fog and some high winds. Flight Aware showed out flight enroute and just a bit late - so fingers were crossed. And we had an uneventful flight home!