Friday, April 24, 2026

Feria week

 Well it is Feria week and what a great week to be in Sevilla. The crowds are no longer overwhelming OUR neighborhood but have moved across the river to the southern end of Triana LOL.  Meanwhile, we get to see an amazing number of well dressed folks including many many many women in Feria outfits!






Most of the above photos Phil took on his walk on Monday. 

All blue text from wiki-pedia

Since 1973, Feria de Abril takes place at the Real de la Feria, an area of 24 blocks (450,000 m2) which is located between Los Remedios and Tablada. In 2012 there were 1048 casetas.[2] The streets of the Real are named after famous bullfighters such as Juan Belmonte and Pascual Márquez. Next to the Real is the Calle del Infierno (Hell Road), an amusement park which offers many recreational activities; a circus is usually set furthest from the Real on the back of the Parque de los Príncipes. Construction of the portada (the main gate) starts months in advance, and it takes several weeks to clear the place after the end of the fair.

 (The layout of the fair is shown above and these blocks are standard size for the old city so it is HUGE!)

The Seville Fair (officially and in Spanish: Feria de Abril de Sevilla, 'Seville April Fair') is held in the Andalusian capital of Seville, Spain. The fair generally begins two weeks after the Semana Santa, or Easter Holy Week.

The fair officially begins at midnight on Monday, and runs six days, ending on the following Sunday. Each day the fiesta begins with the parade of carriages and riders, at midday, carrying Seville's leading citizens which make their way to the bullring, La Real Maestranza, where the bullfighters and breeders meet.

For the duration of the fair, the fairgrounds and a vast area on the far bank of the Guadalquivir River are totally covered in rows of casetas (individual decorated marquee tents which are temporarily built on the fairground). These casetas usually belong to prominent families of Seville, groups of friends, clubs, trade associations and political parties. From around nine at night until six or seven the following morning, at first in the streets and later only within each caseta, there are crowds partying and dancing sevillanas, drinking sherry, manzanilla or rebujito, and eating tapas This fair also has an amusement park that comes with it and has many games to play along with rollercoasters to ride.

The Fair dates back to 1846 when it was originally organized as a livestock fair by two councillors born in Northern Spain, Basque José María Ybarra and Catalan Narciso Bonaplata. Queen Isabel II agreed to the proposal, and on 18 April 1847 the first fair was held at the Prado de San Sebastián, on the outskirts of the city.

It took only one year before an air of festivity began to transform the fair, due mainly to the emergence of the first three casetas, belonging to the Duke and Duchess of Montpensier, the Town Hall, and the Casino of Seville. During the 1920s, the fair reached its peak and became the spectacle that it is today.

Monday night in the Feria de Abril is referred to as la noche del pescaíto (night of the fish). That night, Casetas owners and friends dine fried fish together before the alumbrao.

Celebrations officially start Monday midnight (Tuesday 00:00 AM) when the lights of the portada are turned on for the first time. This event is called the alumbrao. People gather in front of the portada to watch the alumbrao and then go to the casetas to have dinner and spend the whole night at the Real.

inside a caseta (photo Wikiepedia)

So I may have mentioned that one Monday night at La Cayetana with Ron & Mary we had fried fish (per the traditions) LOL


From some of my Facebook posts this week:  Our across the courtyard neighbor must be drying or airing their Feria dress for wearing later  tonight. 😁 😁😁
UPDATE: Tonight's Feria dress(es) because you have to have one for each night apparently. 🤣



Why You’ll See Dresses on Balconies
While the practice is mostly practical, it carries significant cultural weight:
Preparation: Because these dresses are heavy, multi-layered, and often expensive (sometimes costing upwards of €500), they require careful airing to freshen the fabric and "lift" the ruffles (volantes).
Anticipation: Seeing vibrant polka dots and ruffles hanging throughout neighborhoods like Triana or Los Remedios builds community excitement. It marks the transition from the somber tones of Holy Week to the vibrant celebration of spring.
Pride: For many Sevillanas, the dress is a point of personal pride and identity. Displaying it on a balcony is a subtle way of sharing the beauty of the upcoming festival with the city.

Some of Phil's photos of carriages coming past the Torro de Oro along the River:





my FB post from earlier this week- 

It's FERIA de ABRIL here in Sevilla. Many ladies walking to the fair, dressed in full Feria regalia. And the regular sound of horses hooves on cobblestones. Two videos - one from our balcony and one in front of the coffee place we frequent. Unlike Semana Santa we are happy to be here. Yes there are crowds but the crowds are  more of locals, friends and families gathering together for celebrating in private casetas. And since the event takes place south of us and across the Guadalqivir River the city center is not overrun. 

(Note- I will try to post some of the videos here just so you get the feel of it) 
Two in front of the coffee place we go to- and one from our balcony




And before I go on - an update on today's dresses across the courtyard LOL



And here is our dining update section for this week so far- we had sandwiches and salad for dinner on Wednesday night after Ron & Mary left for Barcelona... we were seated outside right by the bus stop on Reyes Catolicas and the buses were ones oging to Feria so a steady stream of buses and smartly dresses folks heading there- 












Then Thursday we had an outstanding dinner at YO with Mike & Janet, friends through Spanish classes with Phil's teachers. Menu and wine pairings shown.

















So we are back to our regular rotation of restuarnts starting Friday with MING, because we have so many other reservations we needed just "the place around the corner" not a big involved plan.






and then Sunday Casapuerta. By Wednesday John & Stephanie will arrive with plans to explore a potential move to Sevilla. and soon we will be heading to the States for summer in Chicago. Time flies. I will have been in Spain for eight months this stay (with side trips of course- two to France and four to other destinations in Spain. But I am hesitant to leave. I love living here - much less stress than the US. 

Tuesday, April 21, 2026

Time with friends

 Sunday rolls around again and we found ourselves out to lunch at a nearby "diner" style place called Guichot 7. We had a simple meal and the service was good. 




That evening we had dinner at Petit Comité. 



We had a lighter red blend for the dinner wine


After a complimentary glass of cava for each, they brought our the duck/foie bites for a complimentary app from the manager.



I had mushroom carpaccio and Phil had the albondigas



Mary had Salmorejo and Ron had the Ajoblanco 



Phil and Mary had the same thing - the pluma de iberico


Ron had the duck breast


and I chose the orzo salad (again-LOL) for my main


After dinner we went to MITO and had foure free ice creams and then walked home via Constitution past the cathedral and the bank and the Adriatico building




The evening weather was perfect for the walk home. Then on Monday Ron & Mary were off to the Palacio de las Duenas home of the Duke of Alba - which currently has a wonderful exhibit on the life of his mother La Cayetana - the Duchess of Alba. What a tour de force she was!

A collage I made from photos of my first visit there last fall:
In her honor, we went to La Cayetana on Monday night for dinner.  We ended the evening at MITO but dinner was an excellent selection of things from the menu at Cayetana. All marked on the menu except the tempura battered bacalao for some special holiday where you eat fish on this particular Monday. We don't know it but the fish was excellent!

Annually two weeks after Semana Santa is la "noche del pescaito" the opening night of the Feria De Sevilla. It’s a cocktail attire event. The Feria de Sevilla is the largest fair in the world and the oldest known fair in the world. The current version originated in 1862, but the previous version of it began in year 1152 by King Alfonso VII. (Thanks to a post from ex-pat Sevilla FB page, we now know why we had the delicious fish 🐟🐟🐟 !!!)












Our last night together in Sevilla with Ron & Mary this trip. They are off to Barcelona in the morning. Phil had class so Ron & Mary and I went to the restaurant Afuego in the back of El Pinton and tarried over drinks while Phil caught up with us a half hour later.  Food was good and we all enjoyed the evening. After a last stop at MITO we headed home and they headed off to bed in order to be up for a 7AM cab to the airport. 













Now we have almost a week to catch up on our day to day schedule before John & Stephanie arrive here in Sevilla. They leave ORD tomorrow and then arrive Madrid the following morning but are doing some time in Madrid and Cordoba before ending their trip here in Sevilla beginning next Wednesday! So we are heading into the home stretch - we leave Sevilla in four weeks. I am sad about leaving but also will be happy to see our friends in Chicago. And we have to get some of the household stuff done there while over the summer. More to follow. Including a dinner with Janet and Mike (Sevillano friends) and a comedy open mic at Uprooted theater... so we keep busy.